Sunday, November 15, 2009

Extreme Proton Iswara Bodykits

Proton Iswara share the same exterior as Saga LMST and Saga LMSS limited Edition. The only different between these car just at rear and front bumper, rear garnish and spoiler. So, this 3 model can share the same mould of bodykits.

Proton Iswara

Proton Iswara Limited Edition (LMSS)


ok, now lets we take a look how people modified their car...

Simple.. DAMN front bumper with evo8 style rear bumper.

standart iswara's bumper, cut at the center, DAMN skirting.

nice touch from the owner.. keep it up!


Turbo Vs Super Charger


It's one of the most common questions we are asked - the answer to which is almost impossible to find
"What is better - a supercharger or a turbo?"

We only wish the answer were that simple, but unfortunately it is not. The simple answer is:
"It depends."
But don't worry, we'll go into more depth than that here. Both superchargers and turbos have distinct advantages and disadvantages. Selecting the right kind of forced induction for your vehicle will depend upon your particular vehicle, your driving habits, your power preferences, and your needs.

Clearing Up Confusion
According to Merriam-Webster's dictionary, a supercharger is defined as:
"a device (as a blower or compressor) for pressurizing the cabin of an airplane or for increasing the volume air charge of an internal combustion engine over that which would normally be drawn in through the pumping action of the pistons".
A turbocharger is defined as:
"a centrifugal blower driven by exhaust gas turbines and used to supercharge an engine".

According to Webster's, a turbocharger is included in the definition for superchargers - it is in fact a very specific type of supercharger - one that is driven by exhaust gasses. Other superchargers that do not fall into this category - the kind that we are all used to hearing about - are normally driven directly from the engine's crankshaft via a crank pulley. So in reality, it is not fair to compare all superchargers to turbochargers, because all turbochargers are also superchargers. For the purpose of this discussion, however, a supercharger will be considered all superchargers that are are not driven directly by the engine, while turbochargers will be considered all superchargers that are driven by engine exhaust gasses.

Both superchargers and turbochargers are forced induction systems and thus have the same objective - to compress air and force more air molecules into the engine's combustion chambers than would normally be allowed at atmospheric pressure here on Earth (14.7 psi at sea level). The benefit of forcing more air molecules into the combustion chambers is that it allows your engine to burn more fuel per power stroke. With an internal combustion engine, burning more fuel means that you convert more fuel into energy and power. For this reason, supercharged and turbocharged engines normally produce 40% to 100% more power (depending on the amount of boost - check out our horespower calculator) than normally aspirated engines.

How They Work
A supercharger is mounted to the engine and is driven by a pulley that is inline with the crank (or accessory) belt. Air is drawn into the supercharger and compressed by either an impeller (centrifugal-style supercharger), twin rotating screws (screw-type supercharger), or counter-rotating rotors (roots-type supercharger). The air is then discharged into the engine's intake. Faster crank speed (more engine rpm) spins the supercharger faster and allows the supercharger to produce more boost (normally 6 to 9 psi for a street vehicle). Typical peak operating speeds for a supercharger are around 15,000 rpm (screw-type and roots style superchargers) and 40,000 rpm (centrifugal-style superchargers).

A turbocharger operates in much the same way as a centrifugal (internal impeller) supercharger, except it is not driven by pulleys and belts attached to the engine's crank. A turbo is instead driven by exhaust gasses that have been expelled by the engine and are travelling through the exhaust manifold. The exhaust gas flows through one half of the turbocharger's turbine, which drives the impeller that compresses the air. Typical operating speeds of a turbocharger are between 75,000 and 150,000 rpm.

Head to Head Comparison
Now it's time to evaluate the turbocharger versus the supercharger according to several important factors.

The cost of supercharger and a turbocharger systems for the same engine are approximately the same, so cost is generally not a factor.

This is perhaps the biggest advantage that the supercharger enjoys over the tubo. Because a turbocharger is driven by exhaust gasses, the turbocharger's turbine must first spool up before it even begins to turn the compressor's impeller. This results in lag time which is the time needed for the turbine to reach its full throttle from an intermediate rotational speed state. During this lag time, the turbocharger is creating little to no boost, which means little to no power gains during this time. Smaller turbos spool up quicker, which eliminates some of this lag. Turbochargers thus utilize a wastegate, which allows the use of a smaller turbocharger to reduce lag while preventing it from spinning too quickly at high engine speeds. The wastegate is a valve that allows the exhaust to bypass the turbine blades. The wastegate senses boost pressure, and if it gets too high, it could be an indicator that the turbine is spinning too quickly, so the wastegate bypasses some of the exhaust around the turbine blades, allowing the blades to slow down..
A Supercharger, on the other hand, is connected directly to the crank, so there is no "lag". Superchargers are able to produce boost at a very low rpm, especially screw-type and roots type blowers.

This is the turbo's biggest advantage. The turbocharger is generally more economical to operate as it as it is driven primarily by potential energy in the exhaust gasses that would otherwise be lost out the exhaust, whereas a supercharger draws power from the crank, which can be used to turn the wheels. The turbocharger's impeller is also powered only under boost conditions, so there is less parasitic drag while the impeller is not spinning. The turbocharger, however, is not free of inefficiency as it does create additional exhaust backpressure and exhaust flow interruption.

Because the turbocharger is mounted to the exhaust manifold (which is very hot), turbocharger boost is subject to additional heating via the turbo's hot casing. Because hot air expands (the opposite goal of a turbo or supercharger), an intercooler becomes necessary on almost all turbocharged applications to cool the air charge before it is released into the engine. This increases the complexity of the installation. A centrifugal supercharger on the other hand creates a cooler air discharge, so an intercooler is often not necessary at boost levels below 10psi. That said, some superchargers (especially roots-type superchargers) create hotter discharge temperatures, which also make an intecooler necessary even on fairly low-boost applications.

Because a turbocharger first spools up before the boost is delivered to the engine, there is a surge of power that is delivered immediately when the wastegate opens (around 3000 rpm). This surge can be damaging to the engine and drivetrain, and can make the vehicle difficult to drive or lose traction.

Back Pressure
Because the supercharger eliminates the need to deal with the exhaust gas interruption created by inserting a turbocharger turbine into the exhaust flow, the supercharger creates no additional exhaust backpressure. The amount of power that is lost by a turbo's turbine reduces it's overall efficiency.


The turbocharger is generally quiter than the supercharger. Because the turbo's turbine is in the exhaust, the turbo can substantially reduce exhaust noise, making the engine run quieter. Some centrifugal superchargers are known to be noisy and whistley which, annoys some drivers (we, however, love it!)


In general, superchargers enjoy a substantial reliability advantage over the turbocharger. When a a turbo is shut off (i.e. when the engine is turned off), residual oil inside the turbo's bearings can be baked by stored engine heat. This, combined with the turbo's extremely high rpms (up to 150,000rpm) can cause problems with the turbo's internal bearings and can shorten the life of the turbocharger. In addition, many turbos require aftermarket exhaust manifolds, which are often far less reliable than stock manifolds.

Ease of Installation
Superchargers are substantially easier to install than a turbos because they have far fewer components and simpler devices. Turbos are complex and require manifold and exhaust modifications, intercoolers, extra oil lines, etc. - most of which is not needed with most superchargers. A novice home mechanic can easily install most supercharger systems, while a turbo installation should be left to a turbo expert.

Maximum Power Output
Turbos are known for their unique ability to spin to incredibly high rpms and make outrages peak boost figures (25psi ). While operating a turbocharger at very high levels of boost requires major modifications to the rest of the engine, the turbo is capable of producing more peak power than superchargers.

Turbochargers, because they are so complex and rely on exhaust pressure, are notoriously difficult to tune. Superchargers, on the other hand, require few fuel and ignition upgrades and normally require little or no engine tuning.

While the supercharger is generally considered to be a better method of forced induction for most street and race vehicles, the turbo will always have its place in a more specialized market. Superchargers generally provide a much broader powerband that most drivers are looking for with no "turbo lag". In addition, they are much easier to install and tune, making them more practical for a home or novice mechanic.

We hope you have found this discussion informative and unbiased. Sometimes when we explain this to our customers, they say that we are biased towards superchargers because that is all we carry. We remind those customers that a turbo is a kind of supercharger and that we truly hope to carry turbochargers someday. The reason we do not currently sell any turbochargers is because we have not yet found a turbo system that is suitable for mail-order / e-commerce sale. We are not prepared to sell a turbo system that is difficult to install and requires the attention of a professional engine tuner or mechanic. If any turbocharger manufacturer makes such a system, please send us the details as we would love to carry such a product.

Produa Kancil Extreme Bodykits

Super Extreme Custom Modification of PERODUA KANCIL (Malaysia Car)

These are some photos showing super extreme modification of Malaysia Local-made car: Perodua Kancil (first photo is the stock car in gold paint).

The custom-made front bumper gave me the impression of Volkswagen.

Amazing car with 6 wheels. 21" sports rim??

I guess this allow the car be like hovercraft to be able to move on water??

Crazy Frog Theme !!!

I am kind of speechless with this car, should anyone of you have even more extreme modified car, please kindly let me know.

Pioneer DEH-6950IB

Pioneer DEH-6950IB CD/Mp3Player with iPod comaptible

I've been using this unit Pioneer DEH-6950IB for 1 year+. I was using a normal Pioneer CD player before(forgot about the model), and there are some advantages with this unit.

First thing I would comment is it provides me with 7-band graphic analyzer, which as far as possible trying to help to tune the music to suit the listener. My previous unit only provide me with low, mid and high. It comes with 5 preset EQ ("SUPER BASS", "POWERFUL", "NATURAL", "VOCAL", "CUSTOM", and "FLAT"), and 2 custom EQ.

Even better, it comes with low and high pass filter which helps to further enhance the component speakers. It helps by cutting down the lower frequency (mainly its the bass) from coming out from the front component,which may distort the quality of the sound.

Furthermore, the deep blue OEL (Organic Electroluminescent) display features incredible brightness, clear readability, wide-angle viewing and full-motion 3D graphics. Because OEL creates its own electroluminescent light, its brightness is resistant to washing out in sunlight.

Adjustable Loudness: You can select "Low", "Mid" or "High" for different levels of loudness compensation.

Rear Channel Output: You can choose to use the rear channel speaker output for full-range speakers or subwoofers. If you select "subwoofer", you can connect a 4-ohm subwoofer directly to each rear speaker lead without using an external amplifier.

Below is the summary of the specifications:
-7-Band Graphic Equalizer
-CD/WMA/AAC playback capability
-MOSFET 50W x 4
-Hi Voltage Pre amp output
-Detachable security face plate
-IP-Bus control
-Rear AUX-IN
-EEQ,Supertuner III D
-Direct Head unit subwoofer control capability (Subwoofer volume, cutoff frequency, normal/reverse mode)
-In built crossover for high pass/low pass
-3 sets pre amp output for Front/Rear/Sub

I bought this player for USD180++. However, this player does not provide time alignment functions which allows you to adjust the time precisely when the music reach the listener(basically it is the driver seat). For the price of it this is a very good unit, and if you need a 13-band graphic analyzer, maybe you can consider unit like Pioneer DEHP-960MP,or some Alpine CD player.

Overall, I would rate this player a score of 7/10, a pretty good car audio player/system. Comments are welcome.

Pioneer DEH-P980BT

Pioneer DEH-P980BT In-Dash CD/MP3/WMA/WAV/iTunes AAC Receiver

Premier™ In-Dash CD/MP3/WMA/WAV/iTunes AAC Receiver with Bluetooth Wireless Technology is so far the highest series of all the Pioneer CD players. It has ms.any functions which only this has and not the other pioneer player.

Built-in Bluetooth Wireless Technology for "Hands-Free" Calling
24-bit Burr-Brown
Customizable Full-Color OEL Display - 256 x 64 Dot Matrix
Multi-Language Display
iTunes® AAC Playback Compatibility
MP3(ID3 TAG) and WMA Playback
Auto-Flap Motorized Face
16 Band - Auto EQ
Auto Time Alignment
Hi-Volt (5V 100 ohm) Pre-Outs
Satellite Radio Ready - XM Radio and Sirius Satellite Radio (In US, not sure whether it is available worldwide)
Background animation/slideshow
iPod Adapter Ready with New Full Control
3-Way Crossover 3 RCA Preouts
Premier® Two-Year Warranty
Price - USD500+

This is one of the products that you should consider when choosing high-end Pioneer CD receiver. Suggested retail price is $500, however, investing in a very good player which can at least last you for 2 years (Premier warranty) is a very wise choice. Personally i like the customizable full colour OEL display, which really can "colour" your ride.

PEGASUS PG65 6.5" 2way Component Speakers

PEGASUS PG65 6.5" 2way Component Speakers

Pegasus PG65 6.5 Component Speakers

I have this component speakers as my front component, wired to Audiobahn A6004V 4 channel amplifier. Initially I used Audiobahn 6.5 ABC6002V component speaker set, and the voice coil spoil after 1 year usage, and I changed to this new pair of toy.

This speakers delivers very clean and strong mid, which is superb for SQ (sound quality) listeners. I have no complaint with this speakers so far, bought it for USD150, or RM500.With the price and the sound quality, I would say it is definitely worth a try.

Specifications as below:
Model : PG65 (Winning Award Speaker Component)
Type : 6.5" Injection Cone 2-way Component System
• 6.5" Woofer : 6.5" Surround, Super Thin Injection PP Cone, 1"Kapton Voice Coil
• 1" Tweeter : Soft Sound Silk Dome material, 25mm Kapton Voice Coil, Neodymium Magnet
• Power Rating : 100Watt (50Watt RMS)
• Frequency Response : 50 - 20K Hz
• Sensitivity : 90 dB (1W/1M)
• Impedance : 4 Ohm
• Crossover Point : 3.8K Hz at 12dB/Octave, with 0 and -3dB selectable attenuation circuit
• Designed and Produced by Audiopega, Inc.,Torrance,California, USA

However, if you have a bigger budget, I suggest try PEGASUS PG162P 6.5" Component Speaker (As depicted below). It produces even deeper and stronger MID BASS,and the tweeter is super crystal clear.
Pegasus PG162P Component Speakers

Specifications as below:
Model : PG162P (Finest quality,High-Definition Speaker Component)
Type : 6.5" 2-way Die-cast aluminium Component System
- 6.5" Woofer : Rubber surround ,Carbon fiber cone,Silver Chrome bullet cap, 30mm CCAW Kapton Voice Coil
- 1" Tweeter : Titanium Dome material, 25mm Kapton Voice Coil, Neodymium Magnet
- Power Rating : 140Watt (70Watt RMS)
- Frequency Response : 40 - 20K Hz
- Sensitivity : 90 dB (1W/1M)
- Impedance : 4 Ohm
- Crossover Point : 5KHz at 12dB/Octave, with 0 and -3dB selectable attenuation circuit
- Magnet weight: 17Oz
- Designed and Produced by Audiopega, Inc.,Torrance,California, USA

Overall, I will give Pegasus PG65 6.5 Component Speakers a rating of 7/10. However, the real quality is really subjective, depending on the listener's preferences, cars, songs, and etc.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Modification Guideline For 4G13 & 4g15

Vehicle Performance Modification Guide 4G13 & 4G15 SOHC 12v Engines.

Proton Saga, Iswara, Wira, Satria

4G13 is 1.3 liters engine which is known as economic fuel consumtion engine. 4G15 is 1.5 liters model is the base range model and was more commonly known as the GLi model until the recent introduction of the GLi 1.8 model for greater power. The 1.5 engine is very much your economy engine with only 64kw - 67kw of power depending upon your location. It can be modified easily and with surprising results. It is never going to be a V8 eater unless you go the turbo route, but the results of minor modifications can be very satisfying and for the majority of car owners, using these cars as mobile sound factories and body kits, this suits them perfectly. The naturally aspirated packages also work extremely well with many new options now available, whilst the low boost turbo systems of course always give there large cousins something to be concerned about.

The most commen upgrade we now do for these models is convert to Injection which is replacement for standart 12valve carburator. Some people upgrading their engine with performace carburator. (eg: WEBER)

Not all mods are for power though, there are many area's of braking and suspension that any stock car can always be improved with. Along with other drive line upgrades, you can have a smooth reliable car, with improved handling, and provide that little bit of sporty power to keep most people satisfied.

This section is to be used as a guide in your modification - we will be breaking this into sections to provide a well balanced vehicle. Additionally the modification package will be setup so that as you increase the power of the vehicle, your alternative items like brakes etc are matched to your new power level. This guide has also been done in an order which provides successive gains from the modifications power wise. Jumping say to number 20 first, may result in a LOSS of power until you have done other items to match its effect.

I does not take any responsibility for people performing these modifications on there car without professional involvement. Check with your local government regulations before modifying your car as these items may not be legal in your country.

Group 1 Modifications

The group 1 modifications are designed for the every day driver, wanting improvements across the board without sacrificing road comfort, fuel economy or driveability. These are also the baseline modifications for the more extensive Group 2 modifications. Standard horsepower for the vehicle is 65kw on average at the flywheel.

1. Quick Shifters

The Mitsubishi gear shifter system is one of the better ones on the market. But that does not mean that people do not want to improve them. This is one of those modifications that can be done at any time. For those performing any level of competition work, or just want something a little more extreme, the Rally Spec Unit reduces overall movement by as much as 65% over stock.

2. Air Filters & Cold Air Intake Kits

The factory air box system on these vehicles, is quite restrictive. There are several ways to free them up - we recommend two main options

  1. Fitment of a K&N Factory Replacement Air Filter for those wanting the Stock look, with improved air flow and throttle response
  2. Fitment of a Cold Air Intake Kit.

The Cold air kit relocates to the front bumper, pulling cold air especially where utilized with a aftermarket front bumper. Of course a K&N large pod filter is used, I recommends purchasing one of our K&N Pre Filter Charger Kits that provides additional filtration and resistance to water. The plastic pipe kit we honestly recommend, other than being the cheapest, is one of the best bang for dollar modifications you can do.

3. Exhaust System Upgrade

Okay you have done the easy mods, now time to do something about the exhaust. Contrary to what many people believe, without any form of induction work or fuel work, fitment of exhaust upgrades are only marginally beneficial. The stock system on these vehicles is usually an Asmathic 1 5/8" system. At this point you must reach your first major decision on where you wish to go with the vehicle - in summary I recommend the following options

  1. Naturally Aspirated - Carb / Stock Computer - You are only after mild improvements to make the car sportier, but don't intend to do any real serious mods. This being the case stick with replacement of the stock exhaust with either a rear muffler upgrade only 2" flow oval shaped unit, or complete it with a 2" press bent exhaust system with new muffler and resonator. Cat converter should remain stock. Any larger on the system would not provide without sufficient more expensive mods, any real gains.
  2. Naturally Aspirated - Piggy Back ECU - you are after mild to medium improvements to make the car sportier, with slightly more than average vehicle modifications. This being the case, we recommend a 2 1/4" diameter replacement exhaust with a new resonator and muffler. No need to go mandrel bent unless you have money to throw away. This setup will handle the majority of modifications we have listed short of turbo systems
  3. Naturally Aspirated - Haltech EMS - okay you are an extreme modder. Twin throttle bodies, camshafts the list goes on. We recommend in this case either a 2 1/4" mandrel bent system or a 2 1/2" press bent system. Only real difference is addition of a 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" cat converter depending upon how extreme you are going
  4. Turbo Charged - no more need be said. But don't go throwing your money away on a 3" mandrel bent system. A 2 1/2" press bent system. Keeps the car quiet, no droning and has a great sound. Mandrel bent on the 2 1/2" system could be done but honestly, you don't need it.

These can produce small gains with the basic systems of around 2 - 5kw at the wheels, with increased rev ability and torque.

5. Suspension Upgrade - Level 1

Suspension Package? Level 1? What is this. Basically at this point you are still have a midly modified vehicle and want to just improve the looks slightly and handling. I recommend in this situation the following

  1. Replacement of stock springs with some lowering units - either 30mm or 50mm lowered units depending upon how low you want to go.
  2. Fitment of a sway bar. Reduces body roll without reducing drive ability.
  3. Fitment of a strut brace. Reduces the tendancy of the vehicle to float on the road and makes it less sensitive to changes in road camber, resulting in less need to constantly adjust the steering wheel to keep the car driving straight.

This package will proved a well balanced vehicle, capable of handling corners at higher speeds, will feel safer at higher speeds especially above 100km/hr. The steering will feel more precise and you will have overall more confidence in pushing the vehicle harder.

Group 2 Modifications

1. Extractor Upgrade

Not all extractors are equal. But in reality, any half decent designed unit will be an improvement over the stock manifold on the vehicle.

There 4-1 race design kits which bolt up to the factory cat converters without any modifications required. Increased throttle response, torque and horsepower all result from this.

If your plan is to go turbo, then save your money and jump ahead several more levels. This is not for you. For everyone else, this will complete the balance of your exhaust system modifications.

This package adds around 5kw at the flywheel with increased torque and improved upper acceleration and rpm range.

3. Fuel Pressure Upgrades

This is the one thing we believe that these vehicles should always have fitted regardless of how little, or much you modify the vehicle. Quite simply the factory vehicle has been tuned for maximum Economy. This has resulted in a fairly large flat spot off idle when accelerating hard from a standing start of from a cruise mode situation. The reason for this is Mitsubishi has tuned very lean on the accelerator pump settings, resulting in the lack lustre performance on throttle, but excellent fuel economy.

  1. Fitment of the Fuel Pressure Regulator kit eliminates this flat spot, whilst only marginally reducing your fuel economy. Without going into huge detail, trust us when we say, flat spots are eliminated, your car will actually accelerate properly without hesitating and your fear of being run over at stop signs will diminish rapidly. This is an easy bolt on kit and can usually be done in around 1 hour maximum.

  2. There are company manufacturing bored out fuel rail, which increases the fuel capacity within the fuel rail. This enables upon acceleration, a greater volume of fuel to become available before leaning out. This also reduces the tendancy to pulse the fuel and create disturbances in the fuel flow, providing a smoother transition to power.

This will not produce any HP Gain, but will provide an approx 10ft/pd torque improvement at low rpm off idle.

3. Single Throttle Body Upgrade / Thermo Block Kit

Time to look at improving throttle response again. Now if you are wanting to go a little more extreme, to a twin system then you need to wait a little longer. For everyone else, time to start looking at improving throttle response, even if you are going turbo.

The stock throttle body on the 4G15 SOHC engine is 46mm. I Recomends for the majority of owners to do the following

  1. For all 1.5 SOHC owners, upgrading the stock to our bored out 51mm or a 55mm is very beneficial. To be quite honest, on the SOHC models, anything with the stock manifold and cylinder head over 55mm is really just not effective. The cost V gain ratio is just not optimal for anything larger than a 55mm unit.
  2. For all 1.6 SOHC owners, upgrading to our bored out 55mm is extremely beneficial.
  3. For 1.6 SOHC owners with upcoming computer mods (Piggy back ECU) then a 60mm is also very beneficial if you are remaning Naturally Aspirated and don't plan on going to a twin system. If you are going to a turbo, then stay with the 55mm.

Whilst this work is being done, I recomend fitting at the same time a Thermo Block Kit. Consider this an extension of the cold air intake kit be reducing heat soak into the intake manifold from the engine and the throttle body which have hot water running through them. This drops the average intake tempatures by 25% overall resulting in improved combustion, fuel economy and throttle response.

This package adds 1 - 2 kw at the flywheel, but does improve throttle response and low rpm driveability. The thermoblock kit reduces heat soak and this allows the engine to maintain maximun ignition timing with max throttle response.

4. Brake Upgrades - to suit all future modifications

Before doing any further power or suspension modifications, brakes now need to be seriously looked at. The stock brakes on the front is a 235mm single piston caliper package with drum rear brakes. Atrocious and disastrous is one of many words used in relation to the brake system on these vehicles. Below in increasing order is the packages we recommend. The stock brakes run a single piston 235mm rotor package.

  1. For those wanting something marginally better, and are not planning on doing ANY MORE Horsepower mods, then minor upgrading of front brakes only. Retaining stock calipers, fitment of performance brake pad.
  2. Next package recommended is to replace the rear drum brakes with a Rear Disc Conversion. Great for looks as well. Braking is improved by around another 10% with much reduced brake fade again, especially as the speed of the vehicle reduces and the rear brakes become more effective.
  3. For those wanting the final level of brakes, fitment of a 276mm Twin Piston front brake and brake master cylinder upgrade is the final step. This part is absolutely necessary for anyone wanting to turbocharge there vehicle in order to enable it to be permitted by the Government to be licensed with a turbocharger conversion.

5. Suspension Modifications - Level 2

Okay ready to take the final plunge for power and hit that turbocharger or twin throttle body with computer. Wrong. Lets take a look at your suspension again. Factory shock absorbers will increase your braking distance, especially if they have been running inside lowered springs for 10 - 20,000km. They are marginal at best when new. Time to go for more extreme options

Shock Absorber Options - three choices here with standard type strut assembies

  1. Fitment of KYB Excel-G replacement units for the more budget conscious. Retains improved handling over stock.
  2. Fitment of KYB AGX units. These are externally adjustable and are perfect for the all round street / strip / circuit car. You can set them soft when your on the road, hard when your driving hard. Adjustment takes less than 1 minute
  3. Fitment if Koni Sports Inserts. These are similar to the KYB AGX units, but are serviceable and provide that little bit more control. They are a more precise unit, externally adjustable on the front only, internally adjustable on the rear. For the more sports conscious person these could be the better choice.

Coil over Strut Assemblies

  1. I recommend the Tien units. To put it quite simply, many Japanese units are set very very hard, so even on there softest unit the car is very harsh, hurts kidney's and actually has worse handling as it skips all over the road. The hardest setting on the Tien units, are equal to the softest setting on the Japanese normal imported units. I cannot recommend these enough - they are simply fantastic with the ability to set your road height, rebound levels etc.
  2. These Tien Units are also available to be electronically adjusted on there rebound rates via up to one independent controller per corner, or one controller on all four units as an example. Mostly for extreme racing only.

The final items I recommend to improve your suspension is as follows

  1. Fitment of a Upgrade front engine mount. This will reduces axle tramp and engine movement. Increases traction and reduces the vehicle ability to get that dreaded engine bounce especially on wet roads. Any serious drag racer would feel the benefits of one of these straight away.
  2. Fitment of a Anti Lift kit to the front lower control arms. In essence, this increases the caster of the front lower control arms and lowers there center of balance, to provide a reduced tendancy to "Lift" the front of the car upon accelerating. Requires a wheel alignment straight away. Highly recommended.
  3. Fitment of a Line rear strut brace (In Coupe Models Only) for additional reduced body movement.

I does not recommend replacing the balance of the vehicle rubber mounts with Polyurethane ones for any street going vehicle unless being used for competition use. This results in a very very harsh vehicle on the road with much increased road noise and vibration. I feel the packages I have recommended provide that best balance of street vehicle and performance without sacrificing drive ability.

6. Drive Line Upgrades

There are three main driveline upgrades which can be done, which go a long way towards improving the reliability of the engine as well as driveability.

  1. Lightweight Crankpulley - this unit reduces both the moving mass of the front harmonic balancer, as well as being physically smaller by around 25% diameter over the stock unit. Helps to make the car rev faster, spins up faster and higher. The reduction in drive ratio's means that the power steering and alternator are turning less at higher speeds further reducing engine load. This is just small enough to reduce load without reducing the effectiveness of the operation of the alternator and power steering units. Highly recommended and very easily fitted.
  2. Clutch Kit - At some point your clutch will need upgrading. Two options available - for naturally aspirated drivers a standard coverplate with a semi ceramic five pucker clutch disc package. This will increase clutch efficiency by 50% without any extra pedal effort required. For turbocharged vehicles, this is upgraded to a Heavy Duty unit with the cover plate strengthens by an additional 25%. This provides slightly increased pedal effort and more tendancy to be shudder on take off's but will handle the higher torque characteristics of a turbo.
  3. Lightweight Flywheel - this has two benefits being increased strength over stock units and also make the semi ceramic clutch units more driveable by not allowing them to shudder as much. Second benefit is that they are lighter and enable the engine to rev easier, faster with less reciprocating weight. No loss of torque but more willingness to rev quicker and harder.

Group 3 Modifications

Now we are down to the serious modifiers. Comfort and driveability is usually second to engine performance and speed is your goal. These next levels are also the most expensive ones, but be warned, if you have not done any of the Group 1 or 2 Modifications yet, you are WASTING YOUR TIME AND MONEY. Finish them first.

The following mods require you to decide, which of the following ways you are going which will be

  1. Staying with the 1.5 SOHC Cylinder head assy for some further mild tweaks mostly in braking and suspension.
  2. Upgrading to the 1.6 SOHC.
  3. Looking to Bolt-on turbocharge.

1. Computer Modifications

Okay two choices. EMS or Piggy Back. Pro's and Con's. But We like to think of it this way.

  1. If you are still budget conscious, then stick with the piggy back.
  2. Your not budget conscious within reason. Then EMS is the way to go. Much more advanced tuning, with options like shift lights, in built boost controllers, many many more mapping points, much finer tuning. Additionally the stock ECU even with a piggy back is unable to cope with any camshaft changes at all.

Haltech Interceptor / Greddy Emanage systems - provide a great unit for baseline tuning. The haltech we recomend for people who have gone all the through the Group 1 & 2 level modifications, but don't plan on going any further. The Greddy Emanage I recommend if you are going for a turbo / twin throttle body conversion due to its ability to be able to tune with larger injectors and tune properly (To a degree) with boost.

Haltech EMS systems - There is the E6X for those wanting something simple, or the Haltech E8 for those wanting the best. With the inbuilt boost controllers, and hosts of other functions, these are way ahead of trying do piece together a piggy back with separate boost controllers, shift lights, gauges etc.

The interceptor units usually provide around a 5kw gain at the flywheel, with improved driveability and torque. The full EMS units provide a little more at this point, but really show there benefit later with more extensive modificaitons.

2. Intake Manifold Upgrade / Twin Throttle Body Conversion

If you are remaining Naturally Aspirated you have several options.

  1. First you can go for a single throttle body with Internal Ram Tubes. Massive throttle response, Haltech piggy back system great looks without extreme levels of tuning required. Significant torque improvements and can be utilized up to a single 60mm throttle body
  2. Upgrade utilizing stock manifold, modified with fitment of a second throttle body - twin throttle body conversion. Either twin 46mm or twin 51mm throttle bodies work very nicely for a progressive throttle response and great top end rush of power. This system is fantastic and highly recommended if insurance premiums are a worry. Requires a Greddy Emanage to run this effectively.
  3. The third option is a combination of a Performance Intake Manifold and twin throttle body. Massive plenum chamber, improved air flow, progressive throttle response, this is nearly equivalent to a quad throttle body kit without the side effects and all of the benefits. Massive air flow and the ability to tune with a piggy back or EMS system. Not turbo compatible of course.

The twin / single manifold upgrades in n/a form can take the car with tuning up as high as around 110 - 115 kw at the flywheel. Twin units produce much stronger mid range acceleration, single units much broader torque from a lower rpm range.

3. 1.6 SOHC Conversion Package

Some people not believe their stock engine can be 1.6 liters. These engine can fit 4G18 Stroker kit which is 1.6 liters in capacity. Stock 1.5 block will be rebore n some modification on the stroker needed.

4. Turbocharger Conversion Package

What more can I say other than your a horsepower and boost Junkie. Welcome to the rest of the world. This combines extreme levels of torque and power, with neck snapping acceleration. It comes at a cost though, increased fuel economy, higher insurance and lots of money. But lets get something clear first.

  1. Anyone believing they can effectivly fit a turbo kit on there car safely, properly and legally.
  2. These engines in stock form will not handle above 1 PSI boost without aftermarket computer management despite what people believe. 25 : 1 rising rate fuel pressure regulators, larger injectors, moving the distributor to retard timing all these tricks - none work. Don't skimp.
  3. 5th Injector systems are something that came and died in the 80's. Quite simply this does not distribute fuel properly to all cylinders, and still does not provide ignition timing adjustment

Do the job properly and although it may cost more, it will last longer, provide trouble free maintenance and be everything you want it to be.

  1. For boost levels up to 10 psi can be done safety on the stock head gasket dependent upon tuning and intercooler efficiency.
  2. For boost levels up to 14 psi requires an upgraded decompression head gasket.
  3. Do not boost above 14 psi on the stock piston / conrod setup otherwise you will learn what a banana conrod looks like.

The 4G15 SOHC engine at around 12 psi is good for around 130kw at the flywheel at the extreme.

Our final advice - if 150kw is not enough for you - the finish reading this page, and instead either look for another car or look to do a engine swap to a larger mitsubishi engine.

Extreme Proton Satria Bodykits

This is some photos showing Proton Satria with customized body kits. However, the front part of Proton Satria looked exactly like Proton Wira, thus making all the modifications almost the same ( I guess this is the standard of Malaysian-made car....always change the back, or change the front so that they looked a little different,and they sell again.

Glossy orange Satria, with front part similar to my previous posted Proton Wira body kits.

White Proton Satria, with double super-size exhaust.

Extreme Produa Kenari Bodykits

Perodua Kenari is one of the best selling Perodua car in Malaysia. Not only it is so affordable and fuel-economy, yet it looks damm nice even with only little modification, which makes it one of the car lover's choice.

These are some photo of Perodua Kenari after heavy customization.

Beautifully made wide body kits (what head lamp is that?)

The body kits are wavy, and my first impression is is it a Kembara?(another Malaysia-made car)

Headlamp for this Purple Kenari are also different, from Toyota Harrier i believed.

White Kenari with simple Gold-coloured vinyl.

Cute pinky Kenari, with Hello Kitty as the theme, I am sure it will attract the young girl's attention.(Noticed the heart-shaped over the right headlamp and beside the carplate?) its cute!
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